Working and living in a hotel in Lapland, at the heart of the Arctic Circle, is a unique experience that allows you to disconnect from the hustle and immerse yourself in the magic of the polar winter. I never imagined that I would end up working in a hotel near the northernmost point of Europe. For two winters, I moved to the small village of Karesuando, about two hours from Kiruna.
As an Argentinian, I faced situations that pushed my body and mind to the limit. It wasn’t just the temperatures dropping to nearly -50°C but also the darkness and isolation. However, if you manage to adapt, living and working in an Arctic hotel throughout the winter can be an incredible experience that fosters personal growth.
In this article, I want to share what it’s like to work as a hotel supervisor in the Arctic. Although I have worked in other hotels across Europe, my experience in Lapland was entirely different due to the challenges posed by the extreme climate, darkness, isolation, and the type of tourists that visit.
Karesuando: A Small Arctic Village
Lapland, with its vast snowy landscapes and extreme climate, offers an unparalleled sense of isolation. Living and working in an Arctic hotel means being surrounded by absolute tranquility, where nature’s sounds replace city noise. This remoteness, far from daily stress, becomes a perfect refuge for those seeking peace and serenity at the edge of the world.
However, after a few months, life in a village where everything closes at six in the evening becomes monotonous. Karesuando, located on the border between Finland and Sweden, is a place where early closures and empty streets are the norm. Few cars or buses travel the frozen white roads.
The village has two supermarkets, a gas station, a gym, a pub (thankfully), a library, and a café. But as mentioned, everything shuts early, and finding people around is difficult. Because of this, my main entertainment was socializing with fellow workers from all over the world who shared the same house with me.
We were all on the same adventure: surviving the cold and ourselves, learning from new people and places. Conversations over a beer, night walks searching for the Northern Lights, tasting reindeer or gloggy, and learning new words in different languages became part of daily life.
The Challenge of Working and Traveling in Arctic Cold
Lapland’s extreme climate is an integral part of working in a hotel in the Arctic Circle. Winter temperatures can drop to -40°C, and the polar night seems endless during the winter months. For both workers and tourists, adapting to the cold is the first challenge upon arrival.
Adaptation varies depending on nationality, age, and body type. In my case, after one or two weeks, my body adjusted, and I learned how to dress appropriately. Of course, I experienced mood changes, shifts in eating habits, and fluctuating energy levels. With the onset of darkness, my appetite increased, and my motivation for physical activity decreased.
For guests staying for only 3 to 4 days, the experience is quite different. With ages ranging from 20 to 80 years old, there’s a wide spectrum of experiences. Younger visitors find the freezing temperatures manageable with the right clothing and multiple layers, whereas for older adults and children, the cold is a real challenge.
What Is It Like to Work in the Arctic?
Work schedules vary—some start at six in the morning, others at three in the afternoon, or even eight at night. A few years ago, this might have seemed strange to me, but in the Arctic, it makes no difference. During the polar night, with only three hours of daylight, there’s little distinction between working in the morning or at night. Time feels irrelevant, and the sky looks almost the same throughout the day.
As I work inside the hotel, I don’t need many layers of clothing—just enough to get to work. However, instructors and drivers, who spend most of their day outdoors in subzero temperatures, take about ten minutes to put on all their layers. They wear so much clothing that there’s a dedicated room for storing their boots and coats.
As a supervisor, one of my key responsibilities is checking the hotel’s indoor temperature. Before guests check into their rooms, I ensure all windows are properly closed, the radiators are functioning, and the pipes aren’t frozen. I also inspect locks and doors, which frequently get damaged due to the cold.
Outside, I check for ice around the entrance, ensure pathways are clear of snow, and monitor the central heating. Additionally, we need to keep an eye on guests—whether they are cold or, more importantly, if they have any accidents during excursions.
The outdoor staff has other responsibilities, such as ensuring snowmobiles, vans, and work equipment function properly. They also carry first aid kits and blankets in case of emergencies, as well as walkie-talkies and various incident reports. Many of them work until after midnight, as once the Northern Lights tours conclude, they must clean and park the snowmobiles, remove ice, and store helmets, gloves, and other gear.
Tourists Who Aren’t Prepared for the Arctic
Many tourists arrive through travel agencies selling Arctic trips linked to Santa Claus and Christmas, downplaying the cold. Unaware of their destination, they are often shocked by the freezing temperatures, isolation, and darkness. On check-in days, the question “Where are we?” is asked at least three times at reception.
This question is so common that the reception team has maps and guides ready to explain that we are in the Arctic, closer to Norway than to Rovaniemi, Santa Claus’s city. Guests often tell us they didn’t bring gloves or scarves, assuming they were arriving in a bigger city. Because of this, we keep an extra supply of thermal socks, gloves, scarves, and hats at the reception.
Older visitors, often traveling alone to fulfill a lifelong dream of visiting Lapland, face numerous challenges—not just the cold but also isolation, lack of resources, the nearest hospital being four hours away, and icy surfaces that can be dangerous.
Working in the Arctic requires anticipating these situations and improving guests’ experiences as much as possible. Often, we treated them like children, asking if they had gloves, scarves, at least three layers under their snow suits, and if they had eaten before an excursion.
Here, we aren’t just hotel staff—we are also responsible for their health and well-being. Unfortunately, tourism in this area thrives on selling an idealized experience, often leaving guests unprepared physically and mentally. As hotel staff, we try to bridge this gap and help them enjoy their vacation without major issues.
Unique Experiences in the Arctic Circle
So, if it’s so cold, why do people visit? Lapland is more than just freezing temperatures and snow—it offers unique experiences. Visitors can enjoy thrilling activities like husky sledding, reindeer rides, and snowmobile safaris, as well as sports such as cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, and ice fishing.
Natural phenomena like the Northern Lights and stratospheric clouds attract thousands of tourists every season. Tour companies capitalize on these events by selling overnight stays in glass or real igloos for aurora viewing.
However, the Northern Lights are often oversold. While breathtaking, promotional photos and videos are frequently enhanced, giving the false impression that they are constantly visible. Disappointed guests sometimes complain that they were “promised” the auroras would always be in the sky.
Reflections on Life and Work in the Arctic
Ultimately, living and working in Lapland is more than just a temporary job in a remote hotel—it’s a lesson in resilience, adaptation, and connection with the essentials. It teaches you to be present, embrace both beauty and challenges, and appreciate what you have and who you are.
Lapland is not just Santa’s home or a place where the Northern Lights always shine. Instead of chasing an idealized version of Christmas or the auroras, perhaps the real value lies in experiencing the Arctic as it truly is—in all its beauty and complexity.
If you ever worked in the Arctic, let me know in the comments! 🙂
If you are interested in life in the Arctic, you can also check my articles about The Polar Stratospheric Clouds, The Polar Night or the Ghost Trees!
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